With nights getting longer here is the outdoor calendar for Tuesday nights. Should the weather turn bad then the backup plan is to meet at Shrewsbury Climbing Wall.
We will be meeting at the crags below from 18:00 on every Tuesday night from 6th April 2010 until 7th September 2010.
This calendar has the first Tuesday of the month at Wenlock Edge prior to the Social Meet. The second Tuesday of the month will be at Pontesbury and the third Tuesday at Llanymynech. Other crags are then fitted in with more distant crags chosen when the nights are longer. Car sharing is encouraged for these longer trips.
Although these Tuesday nights will be the ‘official' meets, keen members of the club will probably be out on other nights as well, so use the bulletin board to keep in touch.
Crag |
Grid Ref |
Directions to Car Park & Crag |
Wenlock Edge Ippikins |
SO 569965 |
Approach via the B4371 from Much Wenlock. Parking is available in three individual lay-by's above the crag. If you pass the Wenlock Edge Inn you have gone too far. At the publicans request do not park in the pub car park. The Main Crag is down and left of the lay-by nearest the pub. Job Buttress is directly in front of the pub but should only be reached by walking across the field at the top of the crag. The Left Hand Wall is below the viewpoint by the tarmac lay-by furthest from the pub.
Please note that sections of the crag are restricted as part of the current access agreement with the National Trust.
Guidebook: Rock Climbs in the West Midlands (Doug Kerr 1988) |
Pontesbury
Pontesford |
SJ 409047 |
Heading south from Shrewsbury on the A488, as you enter the village of Pontesford look for a tractor emporium on your left and immediately afterwards turn left up a small road with a sign for the Earls Hill Nature Reserve. Follow the single track road half a mile up to a car park on top of a small crest.
From the car park follow the path, this forks almost immediately. Take the left-hand path that runs down and around the hill. Walk for 15 minutes through woods, then enter grassland and cross two fields rising slightly. After gate at the end of the second field take a path that heads off to the right from the main path up a steep scree slope to the crag. Varsity Buttress is the first wall on the right. To reach Oak Tree Wall continue up and left.
Guidebook: Rock Climbs in the West Midlands (Doug Kerr 1988) |
Llanymynech |
SJ 265218 |
Take the A5 west from Shrewsbury and after the Nesscliffe bypass, turn left at a roundabout, on the B4396 to Knockin. At the end of Knockin village turn left on the B4398 to Llanymynech. At the junction with the A483 turn right and head towards Pant. On entering Pant take a very small road on the left, signposted “nature reserve” and park at the end of this. Walk up the main track from this car park and where it opens out on the right you can see the main 60m high walls. Climb here on the bolted routes or continue up the track over a stile and then turn right to find the easy trad routes in a hole in the ground; Cul de Sac quarry.
Guidebook: Rock Climbs in the West Midlands (Doug Kerr 1988)
Guidebook: Clwyd Limestone (Lee Proctor, Mark Glaister 2005)
Topos can be found on http://sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/clwyd/Llanymynech.htm |
Grinshill |
SJ 519238 |
Head north from Shrewsbury on the A49 into Preston Brockhurst. Turn left at the signpost for Clive and Yorton. After half a mile turn left at the sign for 'Corbet wood picnic area' and park in the large car park at the end of the road. All of the outcrops and quarries can be reached in a few minutes from the car park. From the car park walk along the track going west, past a number of houses before taking a path leftwards into the woods. Head uphill looking for the trig point on the summit. The climbs are just below this. Further climbs are 100m west of this.
Out of consideration for local residents, please do not park in Clive village to access the crag.
Guidebook: Rock Climbs in the West Midlands (Doug Kerr 1988) |
Nesscliffe |
SJ 385192 |
Take the A5 west from Shrewsbury and turn off right towards Nesscliffe at the roundabout where the road becomes a dual carriageway. In Nesscliffe village turn half right in front of the Old Three Pigeons pub and drive ~1mile round the hill to a car park on the right. Walk back round the hill in the woods on a good path until you are above the village. Head up left to the main crag. The steps up to the cave are a good landmark. We normally climb to the right of here.
Guidebook: Nesscliffe (Nick Dixon 2007) |
Pandy |
SJ 195362 |
ACCESS NOTES : The Nantyr Outdoor Education Centre now owns the crag. They have no problem with us using the crag but if they are there with a group then their group will always take precedence. If you want to climb there at any other time in the year they have no problem with that. The centre can be contacted via nantyr@wrexham.gov.uk or 01691 712 833 or http://www.nantyr.co.uk .
Take the A5 west from Shrewsbury and go past the Oswestry turnings. At a roundabout turn left on the B5070 into Chirk and then left on the B4500 for 8.5 miles to Pandy Village. Turn right at the old chapel on the right just before the bridge, to follow a very narrow lane for a mile up the river Teriw valley to where the lane opens out on the left at a parking and turning point. Please make sure you do not block the lane when you park here since people further up the valley need access. Park and walk on a good track opposite the parking heading up hill eastwards. Cross another track at a stream, go over a stile and continue on the left side of woods to the top of the hill. The crag is to your right and you need to cross a fence and head for an area clear of trees on the cliff top. The descent to the base of the crag is a little further on.
Guidebook: Clwyd Rock (Gary Dickinson 1993) |
Roaches |
SK 005624 |
Take the M6 to J15, Stoke on Trent and follow the A500 through the middle of Stoke to pick up the A53 heading to Leek and Buxton. Continue through Leek towards Buxton on the A53. Turn left at Upper Hulme and follow the minor road for nearly two miles past the tea rooms on the left and a wood below Hen Cloud on the right to a long parking area on the right with space for 30 cars. Turn the car around and park here. An obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. The Upper Tier is above up some steps, The Skyline area is the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Guidebook: Staffordshire Grit The Roaches (BMC 2004) |
Worlds End |
SJ 234478 |
Take the A5 west from Shrewsbury to Llangollen. Turn right at the traffic lights in the centre of town. Cross the bridge over the river Dee, and at the T-junction turn right (East) onto the A539. Almost immediately turn left into a small, steep side road. Follow this twisting road up the Eglwyseg Valley. At a turning, signposted 'Panorama' continue to the left and the crags will soon come into view, until, after about four miles you reach a ford. Cross the stream and drive for about 450m further up the hill until you come to a car park on the left hand side. Park here and walk back to the ford to a footpath that follows the stream uphill. Looking up at the left-hand side of the valley, World's End Escarpment can be seen. The upper tier of the three tiers has the better climbing.
Please do not park anywhere other than the proper car-park, as this could jeopardize the current access agreement with the landowner who currently has no objections to climbers using his crag. The car park is locked at 8pm so for evening climbing park on the roadside just outside the car park.
Guidebook: Clwyd Limestone (Lee Proctor, Mark Glaister 2005) |
Trevor |
SJ 232433 |
Take the A5 west from Shrewsbury to Llangollen. Turn right at the traffic lights in the centre of town. Cross the bridge over the river Dee, and at the T-jct, turn right (East) onto the A539 and then almost immediately, turn left into a small, steep side road. Follow this twisting road up the Eglwyseg Valley. At a turning, signposted 'Panorama' turn right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a side road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large lay-by is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the lay-by. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.
NB: Some of the lower offs are now worn so take care and leave an old screwgate karabiner if necessary.
Guidebook: Clwyd Limestone (Lee Proctor, Mark Glaister 2005) |
Gnosall Quarry
(Not on the plan this year but details here in case you want to visit) |
SJ 823199 |
From Shrewsbury take the A5/M54 to Telford and on to J3. Take A41 to Newport
Take the A518 from Newport towards Stafford and after 5 miles you enter Gnosall
Just past the 30mph sign you cross the canal. Turn Right into Mill Lane. At the end of Mill Lane turn left on Wharf Road, go past a row of shops on the right and take second Right into Monks Walk. Drive to the end of Monks Walk and park by the rows of garages.
By the last row of garages there is a double gate and a footpath just to the right of this.
Take the footpath over a stile and follow the fence on your left. The quarry is on your left in 100 yards. Ask at the house for permission to climb. NO ROPES this is a bouldering area only. Do not disturb birds nesting higher up the wall. The owner has asked that you always climb with someone else present.
Guidebook:None |
Helsby
(Not on the plan this year but details here in case you want to visit) |
SJ 493755 |
Take the A49 North from Shrewsbury, after 18miles take the A41 north towards Chester and when approaching Chester stay on the A41 ring road north towards Ellesmere Port.
Turn right onto the A56 towards Helsby. In Helsby park just off the main road in the station car park on your left. From Station Avenue walk 150 metres further along the A56 in the direction you were travelling. Turn right up Rake Lane and at the top of the slope where it joins Old Chester Road continue for another 50 metres before bashing a way up the hill to the crag. Climbing will be on the Lower West Buttress.
Guidebook: Sandstone Climbing in Cheshire & Merseyside (Alan Cameron-Duff & Peter Chadwick 1998). |
Carreg Y Byg
(Not on the plan this year but details here in case you want to visit) |
SJ248324 |
Take the A5 west from Shrewsbury to Oswestry. Follow signs for Oswestry. In the town follow signs for B4580 to Llansillin. At Rhydycroseau turn right To Carreg Y Byg, and at Carreg Y Byg turn left on a dead end road marked Tynydrain. Go past the first house on the left and at the bend in the road park and go through the field gate on the left and down a track a little way. The climbs are in the woods to your right as you enter the quarry. The owners seem very relaxed about climbing there even though you have to go through their gate and it seems to be on their land.
Guidebook: Rock Climbs in the West Midlands (Doug Kerr 1988) |